วันพุธที่ 21 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Johnny Dawes: 'It's about doing something that's fun. and impossible'

Rock Climber

fatty Johnny Dawes explains what led to his desire for danger, why risk taking is a way to discover who you really are and why, despite the dangers, the escalation must be a source of pleasure

Search online and you will find a number of notable films of Johnny Dawes climbing. In one of these is the escalation of a hand on the edge of steep cliffs. No points are given appropriate support, so that every time your hand comes to move up is not well prepared. Second, is to meet the growing no hands at all, jumping on the side of the rock before jumping into a small advantage - his arms at his side - to fail in his belly, like a salmon ashore. I think another film shot in the slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales in an industrial landscape of the work into disuse, cut into a hillside, where past human activity has created a texture as smooth cliffs the silk. This time is called Dawes to an escalation of the bed, a route first climbed by him in the decade of 1980, Section climb hard slab of gray stone, away from the vertical, but by working as a skating rink .

You look like him pushing forward in a corner next to the steep main board, as the corner of a room where two walls meet. It seems unlikely enough. Then, at the top, is forced into what seems an impossible situation, with foot on the left wall of the corner with both hands on the opposite side of the other wall, leaving his body lying horizontal to the ground as whether to press into the empty space. The feet keep moving. Now they are above the head. A fall here would be a dive head first, but that does not fall and make it look easy. He swings a leg over the other side of this position and put one foot in his hands, supple as a dancer.

All activities have their own histories and cultures, and people who are important in themselves. For British climbing, Johnny Dawes, 47, remains a key figure. His promotions were among the most highly qualified in the world, balancing test and the nerves, some with a reputation for terrible danger. In those days, but complains that it is inappropriate even to a level that could never aspire.

Here is a brief explanation is required. If you are facing an election. You can climb safely widely in what is called "sport" routes, cut the rope on the screws were drilled into the rock at regular intervals, a climbing style popularized in Europe. In this type of course that can be moved down hard several times until, in theory, you can do. But there is another type of climbing, sometimes called "traditional" to "adventure", very popular in the UK, where for decades the screws have been deprecated. These increases in the team to make sure the harness is worn on the rope that bound the little metal corners and other removable devices to be placed in the holes and cracks in the rope that is attached with hooks. The safety of these increases is defined by several factors: the strength of the rock and the presence or absence of cracks in which the equipment for the protection of the slot to hold the rope. As climbs require more physical ability to simply do the movements necessary to get to them. They require self-knowledge, confidence and trial. And crackless crackless or generally where there is little or no chance of protecting place - in "fat" in place, as they are known by the same language as the old Victorian pioneers - the acceptance of a high degree of risk is required.


climb the most famous, and got developed 25 years ago last fall in one of the cliffs of Snowdon, was one of those "fat" to go to failure on the hardest to moves above may result in a fatal fall to the ground. In the tradition of the person to whom the names of the first ascent via the Dawes called new face of Indian features visible on the cliff thinking in a certain light. It was the first ascent of Great Britain to be graded on a scale open E9 "extreme hardship", a promotion, whose fame has hardly diminished over the years, continues to attract the description, after a climber only a fourth promotion in 2010 as a "desperate and deadly challenge." A measure of the persistent difficulty Dawes routes is how some of the most difficult of his ups tried to "see" - the style of promotion, does not pre-Lab prior to inspection track or prior knowledge of the movements or the possibilities of protection. In fact, it took almost 20 years for a climber - an American, Alex Honnold - Gaia Peak District to test samples, (one degree easier for the Indian face) and go up from bottom to top in their first attempt.

Dawes When it comes to me in the center of the castle rock climbing in North London, which is still recognizable as young videos, heavier, but still compact with broad shoulders. Is empty red vinyl duffel bag on the ground in search of his climbing shoes, tight shoes with flexible rubber sole high friction of the tires used in racing cars, making it easier for feet to make a purchase points of support are lacking.

a tangle of long gone deep and rotten pieces, broken metal pours, recovered by one of his climbs in North Wales Sea Cliff, Dawes reclimbed recently for the first time nearly two decades. Take a small slice of gravel, palm size and thickness of a pencil, which was removed during the ascent. It shows the


photographer, breaking the fragment with a weak hand. "The consistency of chocolate and black," said Dawes. "There is no rock like cheddar. Even parmesan. When it is soft as you need to know how to use it. How to put your weight on it."

We meet because Dawes has recently published a brief long-awaited

full of myself

. It describes not only most of his climbs, but also the context of climbing - which led him to take the risks he did and the consequences of the continuation of life danger. It is remarkable, not only as a record of your earnings, but because it is Dawes - and often successful - something equally remarkable, the communication of the experience of climbing difficult and dangerous in very few have attempted

Simon Beaufoy, who wrote the scripts

The Full Monty

and Slumdog Millionaire

Dawes wrote on these climbs as if it were a "form of expression ... dangerous, but necessary "for him. What I want to know is why were they necessary? His answer is complex. Born into a wealthy family whose parents were involved in motor sport scene in the late 1960's flamboyant, Dawes was climbing a flight of Uppingham public school, an experience he hated.

"I think the school was a world of panic for me," he said. "My vision of life is not making the lives of my contemporaries. I just wanted to be somewhere else. It's not really an option. I found the climb, God thank you. This meant I could enjoy doing something separate. It seemed to me that these jokes if something was not a joke ... "He stops". I was probably a very serious person "

that sincerity, admits Dawes, agreed with other functions: the feeling of being isolated and often lack stimulation. It does not recognize it as a young man, but he was also prone to periods of depression. "I felt invisible for a long time at school and also very angry, I thought. You get me at all, to verify this and in a way that was not say this to everyone, what I thought. Many things shit. "
Dawes describing the personality described in psychoanalysis as the "T" type of personality - one that requires constant stimulation and risk taking. "I was in a state of closure, to some extent. When I was doing something dangerous that woke me up. I mean, probably the most stupid I did was risky in a deserted highway. I went out one side of the car with a brick on the accelerator, it was through the hood and in the other window ... I thought the world was very boring. When ground into a kind of porridge. "

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