As chef Ferran Adrià closes the doors of Spain: El Bulli celebrated past, Giles Tremlett, in Roses, Catalonia, the footsteps of his intriguing story. Once the bar run by a couple of refugees, in 30 years has become a temple of the test kitchen
? View images of the Last Supper in the Bulli
Glasses were raised in a quiet Catalan Cove last night at the end of an extraordinary era in culinary history. To the sound of waves on the shore and the incessant sound of cicadas, the famous restaurant El Bulli by Ferran Adrià in Spain have closed. A decade gastronomic revolution was nearing its end, as Adria, 49, is now turning its attention to the construction of "the basis of the avant-garde cooking, without the distraction of customers."
El Bulli has been remarkably successful creativity. For 21 years, and Adrià has been deceived, winning one award after another. But history of El Bulli is much more than the story of Adrià -. The boy from a Catalan-class neighborhood has become famous for, among other bizarre experiments, blowing up tomatoes with bicycle pumpsMenu
signed last year, includes a photograph of a German doctor and a young Czech. It was his desperate romance amid the rubble of World War II would lead to the creation of El Bulli. Dr. Hans Schilling and his wife, Marketa, died today in his last years of life lived largely separate. However, both have had the pleasure of seeing what happened to the land where he built a mini-golf course and a tough
bar on the beach of the Mediterranean .
They had met in Berlin and had a brief but intense romance during the war. As the German army withdraws, Schilling was captured by the Red Army. He avoided being sent to a camp in Russia after smuggling him in civilian clothes and escaped Marketta. Horst Lehwald, a friend of the couple, said Schilling said Marketta should marry only if recognition for his life.The couple discovered
northern Catalonia in the 1950s, before tourism package arrived at the Costa Brava. British travel writer Norman Lewis, was a place nearby to come in his big Buick every summer in search of the study of a Catalan village FishingVoice of the ancient sea
. Lehwald said: "I lent money to buy a piece of land that had not even seen the costs 10,000 marks a plot overlooking the sea where they could build a house .."Cap de Creus
was not a protected national park, and a handful of houses and a summer camp were built in small Cala Montjoi. Initially, there was no running water or electricity. The bar was a way to give Marketta thing to do at the summer house where he settled. It was named after his bulldog, and also known as the bar and Bulli Hacienda El Bulli.
In 1963, he announced as providing a "grill room, bar, golf apartments and Small", with a tourist map of the Costa Brava cheese. He was the gastronomic Hans, however, whose passion for food led the project. Invested money, hired the French chef - Michelin star for the first -. And I never saw a penny in return
In this sense, El Bulli has not changed. Adrià has also lost money on it - was only 15 tables, and logged a day, six months a year - even though the restaurant has helped to build a brand that makes the money elsewhere . At the end of it is both the recognition of their economic utility into something potentially more suited to their mission of a research foundation that stretch the limits of the test kitchen, but without the pressure of having to feed the guests.
Marketta was madly in love with her husband until his death, he had long since gone to live in Germany, where another partner. "In my mind and heart that have never been separated. It was painful, but I had to concentrate on your life," he said before his death in 2007. It was left to oversee the restaurant, possibly Juli Soler Director signature in 1981, which, in turn, formed a dynamic duo with the young chef Adrià.Menu
shows that Adrià has not forgotten the founders of El Bulli. Young people are represented shillings beside an old car with the bull-bar logo and the face of a bulldog that has become an emblem of the restaurant.Adrià
up to six months of work for nothing more than a bed and a meal for lunch, which costs ? Adrià exactly 3 heads. Some can afford to consume no more than that.
However, this is the world's culinary revolution has taken place - and most are happy to have participated. Students at El Bulli went to conquer the world. Last year, half a dozen chefs in front of the 50 awards in the best restaurant in the world, had spent time there.
Stefano Baiocco, now at the Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano, Italy, recalls an atmosphere of intense perfectionism and hard work his way through the kitchen in 2003 - as that Adrian was the invention of spherification technique, turning the liquid into small balls that look like caviar, and start playing with soya lecithin.